Important: Every effort has been made to assure the accuracy of the information presented here, but the author cannot guarantee its accuracy, nor assume any responsible for its application, use, or misuse. All information is provided without warranty of any kind. Use it at your own risk.

The questions here were mostly culled from the West Wight Potter forum at www.trailersailor.com/forums/potter. Answers were compiled based on answers provided by knowledgeable forum visitors, the International Marine Web site, and other authoritative sources.

Potter sailboats are continuously evolving as a product, and the information here may not accurately reflect the current offerings of International Marine. Please visit the International Marine Web site at www.wwpotter.com for current product information and pricing.

The author of this FAQ is not affiliated in any way with International Marine or its principals or subsidiaries, who bear no responsibility for the information presented here. Please direct all questions or concerns regarding the information presented to the Trailersailor West Wight Potter forum at www.trailersailor.com/forums/potter, not to International Marine.

All product and company names in this document are the property of their respective owners and are used for information only and to their owner's benefit, without intent to infringe.

Height is measured to the top of the bow rail, which is the highest point on the boat with the mast completely removed. Length is measured from the tip of the tongue to the back of the motor mount; a swing tongue can reduce the length by about 18" when fully retracted.

You can run into problems if your driveway has a steep slope or sharp turns. Don't rely solely on measurements. Back into your garage very carefully the first time with an observer watching.

Most owners repack the bearings at the beginning of the season. Detailed instructions are available from most trailer manufacturers, and at various places on the Web.

To reef, lower the mainsail until you can hook the grommet at the sail's leading edge onto the reefing hook on the boom, pull the reefing line tight, and cleat it off. If you have sail slugs, you will have to remove the sail stop to let the bottom slug or two out of the sail track and then reinstall the sail stop, otherwise the grommet won't reach the reefing hook. Optionally, you can bundle the loose sailcloth up using lines (called "bunt lines") tied through the middle grommets. Tie the lines around the sail only, not around the boom.

Some owners install a second reefing line at the leading edge of the sail and use it instead of a reef hook. This facilitates reefing from the cockpit if the rig is modified to lead all control lines aft. The reefing procedure is the same, except that instead of hooking the reefing grommet into the reefing hook the operator simply pulls the forward reefing line tight while loosening the halyard.

For more information on reefing in general, see this document provided by Pineapple Sails.

Remember that is is always easier to reef early than late. If you think you might experience high winds or gusty conditions later in the day, you might just want to put in the first reef at the dock.

Wind alone probably won't do it: Potters tend to heel sharply and turn into the wind when overpowered, then come upright with the sails flapping. In the known cases where a boat was capsized some other factors were involved, usually involving poor sail handling, poor load balance, or similar operator error. One owner confessed to raising the main with the keel up, a near guarantee for a capsize if there is much wind.

The seriousness of a capsize can be greatly reduced if you can prevent the boat from turtling (turning upside down). Keeping the cabin hatches securely closed during heavy weather is very important. If the cabin stays dry the boat may right itself after a knockdown. Keeping the keel locked down is also important, since it can enter the cabin with considerable force if the boat turns over and the keel is not secured.

For more information on the known cases of turtled Potters, visit the Turtle Tales page, maintained by the Potter Yachters.

• Adding floatation material is always a good idea. Filling the mast and boom with Styrofoam noodles and sealing them as well as possible will help keep the mast from sinking, increasing the chances of righting a boat that has been knocked flat on the water.
• Increasing the cockpit drain size will let the cockpit drain faster, which will help the boat right itself after a knockdown.
• If you routinely sail in strong winds, you might want to add a second set of reef points in the main.
• If your only headsail is a lapper and you do not have roller furling, you should add a standard jib to your sail inventory.

If you just want better access to the throttle, you may be able to rig a remote throttle. The tiller-to-throttle connection on Nissan outboards is via a motorcycle-type cable, which might not be too difficult to extend outside the motor case. There are no owner reports on this modification, however.

Note: Derek Jensen reported making a "refueling" tank for a motor that had an internal tank, by connecting an external tank to a spare gas tank cap. To refuel, he removed the gas tank cap from the motor's internal tank and replaced it with the gas cap connected to the external tank, then squeezed the primer bulb on the external tank until the internal tank was full. This technique may be worth further investigation if you already have a spare external tank and don't want to change the fueling arrangement inside the motor. Further information regarding the modification is available on the Northwest Potters Web site.

One rule of thumb states that a regulator is required if the output of the solar panel exceeds 1.5% of the battery capacity. For example:

• 100 amp-hour battery
• 15 watt solar panel
• Panel output in amps = 15 watts / 12 volts = 1.25 amps  (current = power divided by voltage) 
• 1.25 / 100 = 1.25% , so a charge regulator is not required.

But the time to bring the battery to a full charge in this case is significant. If you assume the battery is 20% discharged:

• 100 amp-hour battery 20% discharged = 20 amp-hours
• 20 amp-hours / 1.25 amps = 16 hours

If you assume 6 hours of full sunlight exposure per day, the battery will take nearly three days to recharge. This may be fine for weekend sailors but a bit marginal for someone staying on the boat for several days in a row, especially if the electrical accessories see much use. Also note that "full exposure" means just that: even a shadow falling across part of the panel will reduce its output below the rated output. The panel will put out some current with very little light, but will only deliver rated power if it is completely exposed on a clear day with the sun almost at high noon. Most panels also deliver slightly less power as they age.

Visit Northern Arizona Wind and Sun for more information on solar battery charging and compatible batteries. Also see the Gaiam/Real Goods Information Center for information on renewable energy sources and systems, including wind powered and photovoltaic systems.  

• Running lights: 0.5 amps
• Anchor light: 0.25 amps
• Masthead light: 0.25 amps
• Cabin dome light: 1 amp

The current was determined by measuring the voltage drop across a 1.5 ohm 1% resistor inserted in the positive lead from the battery. The results are probably within 10% of what you can expect on a similarly-equipped boat.

• Try plain fresh water first, or mild soap (Ivory, for example) and water.
• White vinegar and water is good for many typical cleaning chores and will remove some stains.
• Car washing detergent is safe on all exterior surfaces, and does not attack wax.
• Spic and Span works pretty well for general cleaning, especially teak, and won't hurt anything, but it does tend to remove wax.
• Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will remove most stains from plastic and fiberglass and is safe on most surfaces.
• Odorless paint thinner is good for removing dried glue and the like, and is generally safe, but should be tested for surface compatibility on a small area where it won't show before using it to do any real cleanup.
• Acetone does a good job on gel coat and the vinyl rub rail, but is unsafe on plastics and many synthetics, like the windows. Reserve its use for situations where more gentle cleaners fail.

If you strike bottom, the propeller shear pin will likely break. This is not a maintenance issue in the strictest sense, but it is such a common occurrence that you should be prepared for the event. Carry a spare shear pin, cotter pin, and pliers so you are ready when this happens. Your outboard owner's manual should include instructions on how to replace this sacrificial part.

The water pump impeller may need replacement every few years, or more or less frequently depending on how you treat the motor. If you often run in shallow water or strike bottom frequently you may need to replace it every year. If the motor never sucks in any mud or sand the impeller may last many years. Impeller replacement is not especially difficult or expensive, but does require disassembly of the outboard's lower unit. Do not try to change the impeller yourself without reading the service manual first.

That's all that is required for most small outboards. Check your owner's manual for further details.

IM sells a Sunbrella cover for the companionway door that may help prolong its life.

By the way, if you are really into the sewing thing you probably should get a Sailrite catalog. They have all kinds of specialty materials, as well as sail kits, commercial grade sewing equipment, and more. Their catalog and Web site are full of good information. The average owner probably doesn't need much of that stuff, but Sailrite is a one-stop-shop for boat owner's sewing supplies.

You should inspect the winch cable regularly, and replace it if you find signs of corrosion or fraying.

One consideration: The premium layup option obviously cannot be retrofitted after delivery. If you think you might want it you should probably order it when you order your new boat.

Note: In a typical installation, an automatic pump can't remove all the water from the boat, since the lowest part of the hull is too narrow to allow locating a float switch there. If you really want to get the hull dry you must use a pump that does not need priming and that can be fitted with a small-diameter intake hose, and control the pump manually.

1. Remove any paint or dirt on the fiberglass, as well as any loose material like flaking or chipped gel coat.
2. De-wax the surface with acetone and a clean rag. Change the rag frequently to assure that you aren't re-applying the wax with the used rag.
3. Rough up the fiberglass surface with coarse (80 grit or so) sandpaper to provide a "bite" for the epoxy.
4. Mix epoxy (not polyester) resin thickened with silica microballons or wood flour to about the consistency of peanut butter.
5. Apply the thickened epoxy to the wood surface.
6. Press the part into place, and brace it or clamp it so it can't move while it cures.
7. Clean up the epoxy slop around the parts.
8. Allow the epoxy to cure at least 24 hours, at an ambient temperature of 65 degrees or higher.

Do not try to use polyester resin instead of the more expensive epoxy; polyester resin won't bond nearly as well. If the temperature is much less than 65 degrees you may have to find a way to warm up the area while the resin cures.

For more information, visit the System Three Web site. Their Epoxy Book is available as a free download and has just about everything you need to know about boat repairs using epoxy products.

• 5 mm. V-12 single braid
• 7/16" Spectra
• 1/4" Yale Ultra Low Stretch

When selecting line, look for low stretch as well as high breaking strength in a line diameter small enough to fit the existing hardware. The keel weighs 300 pounds, but will exert far more stress on the line if it is allowed to drop suddenly (as may happen if the line snarls or the winch is accidentally wound backwards).

You will need about 30 feet of line. When installing the replacement line, make sure there are at least 3 full turns (4 or 5 is better) of line around the winch drum when the keel is all the way down. Having these unused turns on the drum will help reduce chafe and minimize the load at the drum attachment point.

When designing and installing this modification, keep in mind that any components you use in the keel support system must be strong enough to take the full weight of the keel with plenty of strength to spare. Don't buy line with 7000 pound breaking strength and then skimp on the other hardware.

Caution: Never leave the stove running unattended, even for a short time, and always provide adequate ventilation. The stove consumes oxygen and can create an unhealthy environment in a closed cabin.

A small electric heater may be a viable option when shore power is available. There are also many small cabin and camping heaters available that use various fuels and that may be suitable for use on the Potters. But when selecting a heater, remember that each type of fuel carries its own risks, and that a solution that works well in a camper or tent may not be nearly as safe or as practical on a boat.

The best and safest solution: Dress warmly, and have a good sleeping bag handy.

If you keep your P19 in the water, be sure to check the cockpit drain fittings at the stern. There have been reports of leakage there from the hose clamps being too loose. The cockpit drain is slightly above the water line on an empty boat, but may be below the water line when the boat has a few people on board.

Another consideration is where the cracks occur. They are generally found where there is stress imposed on a fitting that does not have adequate support to distribute the stress properly to the surrounding structure. Such problems are worth investigating, because the cracks will tend to spread unless the structural problem is resolved. Before fixing the cracks themselves look at the surrounding structure and find and fix any underlying problems.

Late-model P19s have a full hull liner, which includes a floor that is bonded to the keel trunk. Cracks in this area are fairly common due to uneven stresses between the hull liner and the outer hull. Even a real crack all the way through the liner is not necessarily serious, as long as the outer hull is not cracked.

A coat of epoxy barrier paint can greatly reduce the likelihood of blisters developing, and is generally a good idea for boats that are kept in the water full-time. If you put bottom paint on your boat it is probably wise to apply a barrier coat first.

1. Remove all hardware from the affected area.
2. Dig out all the rotted wood you can reach through the holes where the hardware was mounted. (If you can't seem to get it all the damage may be more serious than you thought and require removal of some fiberglass -- a topic a bit too involved for coverage here. You may need professional help.)
3. Keep the boat dry (under cover) for a few days to let the core dry out as much as possible. A hair dryer or heat gun may help, but allowing time to dry is really the best bet.
4. After the core has dried, securely plug the bottom of the holes with tape and pour epoxy resin into the holes such that it will soak into the core. There are thinned epoxy products that are good for this: CPES (available at www.rotdoctor.com), Git-Rot, and System Three Clear Coat are all popular choices.
5. After that has fully cured, mix some thickened epoxy resin and fill the holes, or if they are large just fill the gouged-out areas until the hole edges are fair. (Thickened epoxy is just regular epoxy resin mixed with wood flour or a similar thickening agent.)
6. After that cures, re-drill the holes into the epoxy-filled patches and re-bed and reinstall the hardware.

If you do this right, you will not only fix the original problem but will greatly lessen the likelihood of future rot in the repaired areas as well. The epoxy will act as a barrier to water intrusion, even if the hardware bedding dries out.

• One comfortable and effective life jacket for each crew member. IM's "safety package" includes a couple of inexpensive PFDs that could save your life, but you will have trouble getting anyone to wear them. Get ones you can live with and save the cheap ones for unexpected guests.
• At least one throwable PFD (cushion).
• Distress flag. These aren't too popular these days, but they can be an effective attention-getter when hoisted up the mast. Also, a distress flag will never expire as flares do.
• A few tools and spare parts.
• Waterproof flashlight.
• First aid kit.
• Hand operated bilge pump, if you didn't get one with the boat.
• Boy Scout knife, Swiss Army knife, or similar; keep it on the boat all the time. (The one in your pocket may be missing when you need it most.)
• Boat hook, preferably one that doubles as a brush handle.
• Gas and oil for the outboard, and a container to mix them in (if you have a 2-stroke).
• Folding bucket, or something similar.
• Large sponge.
• One waterproof box to carry miscellaneous small stuff in (boat registration, handheld GPS, tools, parts, etc).

If you didn't get a marine VHF with the boat, you should seriously consider one. If you go out of sight of land or stay out after dark a GPS is also a good investment. A handheld unit is fine, and IM offers a Standard-Horizon chartplotter as an option if you want to spend real money.

This matter is often discussed on the WWP Forum. You might want to read the discussions there for detailed pros and cons of both boats.

Used boat: You save money, usually don't have to buy much additional equipment or supplies, and know the bugs are all worked out. But you will have to deal with some normal wear and tear issues and may also be buying someone else's problems.

Your choice.

For a history of the changes to the Potter 19 over the years, visit the Files section of Bill Nolan's WW Potter Owners Registry, Photos & Articles site.

• Look at the boat's general condition, and ask the owner how it was stored (garage, yard, covered, uncovered, in the water, etc.) Boats stored dry will generally have fewer problems than boats stored wet.
• On a P19, be sure to check the deck and cabin tops for soundness; they can get rot in the core which can be expensive to fix.
• Raise the keel, inspect it for rust or damage, and lower it. This will confirm that the winch, cable, and keel are OK.
• Check out the sails. Potter sails are easy to get and aren't all that expensive, but if they are shot you should factor new sails into the price.
• Look at the list of supplied equipment and accessories, because an awful lot of stuff on a Potter is optional. The IM Web site has prices for new accessories and options that you can use for a baseline when considering the value of options on a used boat.

Otherwise, basic diligence is all you need.

• Multi-bit screwdriver, or a few different screwdrivers
• Small and medium crescent wrench
• Small locking pliers
• Long nosed pliers or a Leatherman-type multi-tool
• Pocket knife
• Spray lubricant
• General purpose marine sealant

A minimal spare parts kit should include:

• Spare cotter rings and pins
• A few spare clevis pins
• Miscellaneous insulated wire
• Sail repair tape
• General purpose tape (duct tape or electrical tape)
• Rigging tape
• Spare fuses
• Spare bulbs for the running lights
• A few bungee cords, various sizes
• Some spare line, same as used on the mainsheet
• If you have an outboard you should add a spark plug, spark plug wrench, and propeller shear pin to the list.

It is easy to overstock a boat. Remember that in many cases it is more practical to carry most of your spare parts and tools in the tow vehicle, rather than on the boat.

• Defender Industries: Often recommended by Potter owners. www.defender.com.
• Sailnet: A general on-line marine supply with a good selection of sailing equipment and hardware. www.sailnet.com.
• Boater's World: Among the least expensive of the general marine supply houses, with decent service and a fairly large catalog. Try them before you go to West Marine or Boat US. www.boatersworld.com.
• West Marine: Not especially price competitive, but well established and has a large catalog. www.westmarine.com.
• Boat US: Again, not the cheapest but well established and has a large catalog. www.boatus.com.
• Boatfix.com: Probably the best place for outboard motor parts and other mechanical stuff and general maintenance supplies; very competitive pricing and good customer service. www.boatfix.com.
• Surplus unlimited: Limited stock, but great prices. It is worth checking them out before buying elsewhere. They are more oriented toward power than sail, but they offer great deals on what they do have. www.surplusunlimited.com.

And of course, there is always IM. If they have the item listed as an available accessory you should consider buying from them, just because they know Potters and you can be assured that the things they supply will work with their boats.

• Keel winch (P19): Is a Fulton model K650.
• Compass: Is a Plastimo Mini-Contest.
• Porta-potti (P19): Is a Thetford model 135.
• One-burner stove (P19): Is a Mr. Max table-top burner by Athena International.
• Water jugs (P19): The water jugs in the standard fresh-water system are five gallon Reliance Fold-A-Carriers. (No Web page found, but many camping supply stores sell them for prices ranging from $5 to $10 each.) 
• Opening ports: Are Beckson Rain Drain ports, model PO 714WC-10.
• Forward vent: Is a Nicro model N10883, 3" diameter, manufactured by Marinco.
• Blocks and other running-rigging hardware: Are made by Harken.
• Boom vang: Is kitted by IM using Harken hardware.
• Roller furling: Is made by Cruising Designs (CDI).
• Outboard motor: Up to 2002, IM offered 2-stroke and 4-stroke Nissan outboards as options. Beginning in 2003, IM started supplying Honda 4-stroke outboards.
• Running lights: The running lights on boats made prior to 2001 are probably Aqua Signal series 20 lights made by Aqua Signal AG (This page is in German; for product information in English, visit Performance Yacht Systems). 2001 and newer boats use Perko lights, which are better quality and meet USCG requirements.
• Cabin light: Is a 4" dome light made by Sea Dog. It uses a 12 volt bayonet-base bulb.
• Battery: Most boats have series 24 maintenance-free gel batteries, made by PowerSonic. This may vary from year to year, but the battery supplied with recent option packages has been a PowerSonic model 12600M, 60 amp-hour capacity. IM does offer a standard wet battery but most owners who have electrical accessories get an options package that includes one or two gel batteries.
• Battery charger: Is a Guest Pro Charger. The single battery boats use model 2608. Two battery boats use model 2607. Note: These chargers are rated as waterproof by the manufacturer.
• Depth sounder: In 2001 and 2002, IM offered two options; a Humminbird depth finder and a Standard Horizon depth sounder with speed indicator, model 150. In 2003 they offer a Navman sounder in place of the Humminbird product.
• Stereo: Is a Sony AM/FM/CD player.
• VHF radio: Currently there are two options; a Uniden model MC535 or an Icom M402.

By the way, the Coast Guard maintains a searchable list of manufacturer identifiers. If you see a boat and can't identify the manufacturer, note it's HIN and look up the manufacturer ID here.

Oars are expensive, but if you are handy with tools and have some time you can make your own for experimental purposes. A set of plans and instructions for some simple oars are available free at bateau.com.

There are also various online resources, for the "book learning" side. Boat U.S. offers a basic boating course online. Baysail.com offers an online sailing course. Either of these resources are a good place to start if you are new to boating or sailing.

• The International Marine Web site: www.wwpotter.com. IM posts extensive information on the boats, accessories and options, and pricing. (You can even buy a new boat online, if you want.)
• The definitive Potter owner's forum is at www.trailersailor.com/forums/potter.
• There is a Potter Web ring at http://h.webring.com/hub?ring=westwightpotters&id=13&hub.
• Bill Nolan's West Wight Potter Owner's Home Port site: http://www.wwpotterowners.com has lists of Potters in service, photos, articles, technical information, and lots of other good stuff.